Watch-industry Gold-plating Specs & Wear Tests
高级制表镀金层标准与耐磨测试
标签：瑞士制表, 镀金标准, NIHS, 耐磨测试, 质量验收
瑞士钟表业对表壳镀金有成熟行规：镀金厚度须以微米数刻印在表壳背面（如"5μ"），表壳通常 3–5 μm、表扣 1–2 μm，并先镀 1–2 μm 镍底防铜扩散并提升光亮度。耐磨验收采用 Ludwig 往复摩擦与 Taber 磨耗：5 μm 镀金经 5000 次往复后露底面积应小于 5%。品牌 QC 另要求人工汗液 48 h 与中性盐雾 24 h 无腐蚀点。国内代工厂按同一体系自检，测厚记录随批次归档 5 年备查。
Swiss watch practice codes gold plating by stamped micron marks (e.g., "5μ"): cases at 3–5 μm, buckles 1–2 μm, over a 1–2 μm nickel strike that blocks copper diffusion and boosts brightness. Wear acceptance uses Ludwig reciprocating and Taber abrasion tests—after 5,000 strokes a 5 μm layer must expose under 5% substrate. Brand QC adds 48 h artificial sweat and 24 h neutral salt spray with zero corrosion points. OEM suppliers run the same self-inspection, archiving thickness records for 5 years.