Guilloché Meets Roll Texturing
非遗视角:玑镂刻花与辊压纹理结合
标签:玑镂,日内瓦纹,法国传统,车花母版,辊压复刻
玑镂(Guilloché)是 18 世纪成熟的机刻花纹技艺(日内瓦纹、巴黎钉纹),传统靠车床手持刻刀单件车制,日产仅数件。工作室可手工车出母版(节距 0.5 mm、深 0.12 mm),经电火花翻制成 φ40 mm 小辊,在黄铜表盘、首饰上辊压复刻,单件 20 秒、纹理一致性约 95%。辊压走带方向须与母版车削螺旋升角一致,否则网纹错位。
Guilloché—the engine-turned patterning (clous de Paris, Côtes de Genève) perfected on 18th-century lathes—is made one piece at a time by hand. A workshop can hand-turn a master (0.5 mm pitch, 0.12 mm deep), EDM it into a φ40 mm roller, and roll the pattern onto brass dials and jewellery at 20 s per piece with ~95% pattern consistency. Feed direction must match the master's helix angle or the cross-hatching misaligns. ---